Home again

After a “light” breakfast at our hotel we bid farewell to all our friends at Hever Castle and headed for the airport and the car return. We always breathe a sigh of relief when we return a car unscathed and after the heart stopping moments we had on this trip this was indeed a big sigh. Our flight home was pleasant. Somehow those airport seats are never really big enough to get totally comfortable but thanks to a movie and a constant flow of food and drinks the eight hours passed.
Our good friends Ed and Elaine met us at the airport with a big “Welcome Home” and it felt good to be back on home turf. The drive to their home took us over the Sunshine Skyway bridge just outside Tampa and the view of the bay from that height is just gorgeous.
Elaine served us a delicious dinner as we shared a few highlights of our trip with them. By now it was getting late, especially for us who were still functioning on England time, so Ed and Elaine insisted that we spend the night with them. We are so blessed to have such good friends.
After another set of goodbyes on Tuesday morning we headed for home. It took all afternoon to unpack, do laundry, open the mail and get settled in. It is nice to travel, and this was most definitely a trip we will long remember, but it is nice to come home too.
I hope you have enjoyed our blogs. If you have any comments you can send them to Audreysonthego@embarqmail.com.

Day Twenty-two - The Cotswolds

Photos: Top photo is our B&B for Saturday night. The rest are scenes from the various villages in the Cotswolds.

We woke to yet another beautiful sunny day. I think England wanted us to go home with fond memories. After one more delicious English breakfast we were on our way to the Cotswolds. My friend Pat said that this was an area we should not miss and was she ever
right.

We had a brief introduction to this area yesterday when we visited Bath. But where Bath was hustle and bustle the villages of the Cotswolds were definitely refined and typically English. With names like Chipping Campden, Moreton-In-Marsh, Castle Combe, Stow-On-The-Wold, Burton-On-The-Water and Upper and Lower Slaughter these age mellowed towns were definitely a step back in time.

The area itself is comprised of rolling hills and deep valleys. Over the centuries, the honey-colored stone have yielded building blocks for many Cotswold houses and churches and have transformed little towns into realms of gold. These were once great sheep rearing areas of England and even today sheep graze in abundance on the hillsides.
We visited each of the above mentioned towns, walking their town squares and visiting their shops. We stopped for tea and scones in Burton and ice cream in Moreton and just had a delightful day. Couldn’t have been better for our last day in England.

But all good things must come to an end. Around 3 pm we decided it was time to head back to Kent. Three hours later we pulled into Hever Castle and it was like coming home. Having spent two weeks here it seemed like home to us, and when we walked into reception and everyone was so excited to see us and wanted to hear all about our week, we definitely felt like we were home.

We had our “last supper” in the dining room of the hotel and I am proud to say that as of this writing, I am completely packed. I had my doubts that it was all going to fit, and I have to say that it was not easy to get it all in, but unless the suitcases weigh more than fifty pounds we are ready to come back to our true home in America.

Day Twentyone - Bath

Photos: Top to Bottom - Audrey and Charlie drinking the Mineral Water, Bath Abbey, A typical street in Bath (Lots of guest accomadations), The Royal Crescent, Flowers in a park, The Cotswold Countryside

Today was a day for history. Just when I thought I had my kings and castles straightened out I now find me back in the days of the Roman Empire trying to understand yet another element of history. After another English breakfast we were on our way to Bath. Fodor’s guide recommends that you do not go into Bath on a Saturday or Sunday and I can understand why. This is a bustling city. We arrived about 10:30 and were on the top level of the parking garage. Just outside the car park we were able to board the sightseeing bus that travels throughout the city of Bath letting you get off and on at various tourist/shopping areas. We first headed to the Abbey. Those of you who have followed our blog know that we visit a lot of churches. Dominating Bath’s center, this 15th century edifice of golden, glowing stone is one of the most splendid churches we have ever been in. The fan ceilings and more than fifty stained glass windows (one for every week of the year) make this one of the most spectacular churches we have visited.

With soap in hand our next visit was to the Roman Baths. The hot springs have drawn people here since pre historic times. Roman patricians would gather to immerse themselves, drink the mineral waters and socialize. The actual warm mineral water still flows through the baths to this day. In fact, we were able to sample this water from a fountain located above the baths (No bathing allowed).

Back on the tour bus, our next stop was The Royal Crescent, one of the huge edifies built in the mid 18th century. Made up of thirty houses, connected together in a semi-circle today the center house comprises the Royal Crescent Hotel. This huge complex, like others in the city, was built to accommodate visitors who wished to take advantage of the warm springs and the social life that the city afforded.

By mid afternoon we were all Bath’d out and it was time to head for the Cotswolds. We had heard from friends how picturesque this area of England is so we just had to check it out for ourselves. With a scattering of picture post-card towns and villages separated by rolling hills dotted with scenic farms, the Cotswolds are rural England at its best. We became quite immersed in the thinly villages we drove through, sometimes stopping to partake in a local activity. By 5 pm it was time to seek out a resting place. B&B’s are not plentiful in this area however we were fortunate to come across this most charming pub/hotel about 50 miles north of Bath. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and the atmosphere could not have been better. This was truly the end to a perfect day.

Day Twenty - St. Ives

Photos: Top to Bottom - St. Ives Harbor, Shops along one of the streets, Narrow street with flowers, Public Beach at St. Ives, Cliffs north of St. Ives

Today was St. Ives day. After another sumptuous breakfast we boarded the train for St. Ives. The ride through Cardis Bay was beautiful. The blue water, soft tan sand and soaring cliffs made an impression in our minds that we will not forget.

St. Ives is on a spit of land that juts out into the Atlantic just north of Land’s End. It is covered with stone cottages and cobblestone walkways that were built by fisherman back in the 18oo’s. Two short streets offer no less than 500 shops which cater to the throngs of tourists who come here. St. Ives is predominantly an artist community however this little town will have something for everyone who visits, and thousands do. Tate St. Ives has a formidable presence in this town and we were compelled to visit, however we both felt that the local galleries were just as interesting. B&B’s were everywhere as well as quaint little hotels and rooming houses. I would not have a clue as to how many visitors were in residence while we were there but I can speculate that it was more than any other town we have visited in England.

St. Ives has a quaint harbor filled with small fishing boats. Like most harbors in this part of England it is a high tide only situation. We watched the fishermen tend to their boats and were fortunate to have an opportunity to talk to a few.

Now that we have morphed into full breakfasts at our B&B’s the coffee and pastry breaks we used to enjoy are being bypassed, much to our dismay. As a condolence, we treated ourselves to Cornish ice cream cones this afternoon and sat on a bench overlooking the beautiful landscape to enjoy them.

By mid day it was time to get back on the highway and head north. We followed the cliff road for a few miles stopping to look over the edge and even walk the path that runs along these cliffs for a short distance. This is truly natural beauty at its finest.

Tonight we are in Burnam by the Sea. Leave it to us to gravitate to waterfront communities. We walked from our current B&B along the beachfront to a wonderful Italian restaurant where we enjoyed our customary bottle of wine and a delicious meal.

Tomorrow it’s off to Bath. We might even bring a cake of soap!!

Day Nineteen - Cornwall

Photos:

Top to Bottom Beachfront at Falmouth, Harbot at Falmouth, Maritime Museum, Mt. St. Michael, Land's End (Custom House), Land's End Cliffs, Audrey and I at Land's End, First and Last hotel at Lands' End, Harbor at Penzance (Low Tide), Lunch at Admirl Benbow Inn, Harbor at Mousehole, Narrow streets at Mousehole

After yet another English breakfast (our waistlines have definitely expanded these last three days) we set off for a walk along the beachfront of Falmouth. Our B&B was so centrally located that we were able to walk to the beach and also to the Maritime Museum. The museum turned out to be a real treasure. Over 140 boats of all types and sizes were on display, many of them suspended above our head and viewable from upper walkways. We were able to go below the water and view local fish in their habitat and climb high to a lookout tower for a panoramic view of the working/recreational harbor.

Yesterday’s clouds and intermittent mist gave way to bright sunny skies today so from Falmouth we continued west toward Land’s End. We are now in the Cornwall area of England which is on the far western side. Unlike Kent which was beautiful but composed of largely flat terrain, Corwall is very hilly and affords outstanding views of the landscape. As much as we liked Kent Charlie and I both think that the area from Dorset west to Cornwall is the most beautiful that we have ever seen.

Land’s End is the most southwestern point in England. It is literally on top of huge cliffs which encompass much of the Cornwall coastline. You can stand on top of these cliffs and look out over the Atlantic Ocean and the feeling is exhilarating. We walked along the cliffs watching the waves crash among the rocks and marveled at the beauty of it all.

From Land’s End it was time to head for Penzance. Sitting on the shores of Mount’s Bay and dominated by the majestic island castle of St. Michael’s Mount, Penzance is a town surrounded by outstanding natural beauty. Time did not allow us to tour the castle as it is situated on an island off shore so we settled on a walking tour of the town. Unlike St. Ives which we will visit tomorrow and which is a very artsy community, Penzance is a working/fishing town and like most English towns dating back to the 18th century is definitely a charmer. We were told not to miss The Admiral Benbow Inn so we decided this would be a great place to have a late lunch/early dinner. Words cannot describe the extensive collection of nautical “stuff” that this place displayed. It would take an afternoon just to see the entire place. Unbelievable, plus it has a history of smuggling which I think they are proud of. There is even a secret tunnel that leads from the restaurant to the harbor.

A side trip to the towns of Newlyn and Mousehole (pronounced mow-zel) added even more English flavor. Newlyn has long been a major fishing port and the boats were so picturesque. Mousehole is a fishing village whose claim to fame is its tiny stone cottages, and I might add, it’s extremely narrow streets. These towns are on the sides of steep hills many of which you wonder if the car will make it up the hill. To add insult to injury, you almost have to turn in the mirrors on the car to navigate thru these narrow passageways. Definitely a few heart stopping moments!!!

By late afternoon we were ready to look for our B&B. Tomorrow we are planning to spend the day in St. Ives however we were strongly advised to secure a B&B outside of the town. We found a lovely place in Cardis Bay just a few miles from St. Ives and were fortunate in that they had a room. I think we are turning in early tonight.

Day Eighteen - Plymouth

Photos: Top to Bottom

Salt water Swimming Pool cliff side in Plymouth dating back to the 18th century and still used today, Plaque indicating the departure point of the Pilgrims for New England 1620, Charlie at the top of the Mayflower Steps where the Pilgrims left from, self explanatory, Cornwall countryside, Our Bed and Breakfast (Oldest Home in Falmouth) Note: Click on any photo to view at full size. Use Back Arrow to return to blog.

Our tour guides Roy and Marion would not let us leave before serving us one more sumptuous English breakfast. What a treat it has been for us staying with this wonderful couple. They not only opened their home to us, fed us like there was no tomorrow but have dedicated the past two days to driving us to places we would never have seen on our own. Thank you again Roy and Marion.

We bid farewell to our friends about 9:30 and headed west. The drive across the southern plains of England was just beautiful. Rolling hills dotted with a collection of farms and sheep and cows. Norman Rockwell could not have drawn anything any prettier.

We arrived in Cornwall around one. My Fodor’s guide indicated that there was much to see in Plymouth and Mr. Fodor was not wrong. We spent about three hours walking around the waterfront area taking in views from an area they call the Hoe which is a walkway high above the city which offers magnificent views of the inlets, bays and harbors that make up Plymouth Sound. The most outstanding aspect of this area for us is that it is from this very point that the Pilgrims came to America aboard the Mayflower. We were actually able to stand on the very place that they left from. Being Americans this was so exciting to us.

From Plymouth we headed further west and south into the heart of Cornwell and are now staying in a B&B which just happens to be the oldest home in Falmouth. So very charming, the home and it’s owner. We enjoyed a lovely dinner in the dining room and will have our breakfast there tomorrow morning. Fodor’s guide is touting a National Maritime Museum which they say will acquaint us with Cornish maritime heritage as well as provide the opportunity to view a collection of 140 or so boats and a glass fronted Tidal Zone below sea level where we can come face to face with the sea itself. We can’t wait. Will tell you all about it tomorrow night.

Day Seventeen - Salisbury and Stonehenge

Photos: Top to Bottom

Salisbury Catherdal, Red Lion Inn, Inside the Red Lion, Artists impression of how Stonehenge might have looked, Standing in front of Stonehenge with Roy and Marion, Stonehenge, Poundbury, Poundbury square

Today was a day for wonders. It began with an enormous and most delicious English breakfast prepared by our hosts. This definitely set the tone for the day. We headed first to Salisbury to see the town and of course the majestic Cathedral. Salisbury Cathedral is unique among cathedrals in that it was conceived and built as a whole in the amazingly short span of thirty-eight years (1220-1258). The spire was added in 1320 and at 404 feet is the tallest in England. We enlisted a tour guide who was only too happy to point out the significant aspects of this historic edifice.

After we left the church we walked through the town checking out the shops and stopping at the Red Lion Inn for a glass of wine and a little lunch.

Next on the itinerary was Stonehenge. This is a place that Charlie has wanted to visit since he heard we were going to England. It has an almost surreal presence in today’s modern lifestyle. Stonehenge was begun about 3000 BC, enlarged between 2100 and 1900BC and altered again in 150 BC. It has been excavated and rearranged several times over centuries. Standing before these giant stones one can only be humbled by the wonder of how it could have been achieved.

After Stonehenge our tour guides took us Dorchester to visit a model town called Poundbury. This town was architecturally designed by Prince Charles to mix different age groups and occupations within a planned community. With a population of approximately 3000 and growing this is definitely a town that is still in transformation.

We arrived home about 6 pm and soon after were treated to yet another magnificent dinner served up by our tour guides Roy and Marion. We could not have asked for better hosts to show us this amazing country. They most definitely took us to interesting places we would never have gone to on our own.

Tomorrow we are back on the road and once again on our own. Thanks to Roy and Marion taking us to Salisbury and Stonehenge we can now set our sights on Cornwall and points West. Will keep you posted as we go.

Day Sixteen - Dorset

Photos: Top to Bottom

1st and 2nd Hengistbury Head

Marion and Roy

Sunbanks at the Entrance to Poole Harbor

Marion and Roy at Knoll Beach

Old Harry Rocks

Amphitheater at Swanage

Bell Tower in Swanage

Enjoying some refreshment at Scott Arms Pub

View from Scott Arms

Scott Arms

Corfe Castle ruins

Click any photo for full size. Use back arrow to return.

After a sumptuous breakfast at our B&B and a quick drive around the waterfront area of Portsmouth we headed west through Southhampton to Ferndown, a charming village near Bournemouth. We were invited to stay with Roy and Marion, a wonderful English couple we met a few years ago while on a cruise. They offered to show us the Dorset coastline of England and what a tour they gave us. Dorset has twenty-six miles of coastline and we had one fantastic tour of every mile. Lush rolling hills sweeping down to crystal clear water and golden sand beaches that seemed to go on for miles.

We arrived at their home about noon and after a quick catch up and a nice lunch it was time to go touring. We first headed to Christchurch continuing on to Hengistbury Head, a hill on the most eastern end of Poole Bay where we were afforded outstanding views of the Isle of Wight. From Hengistbury Head we followed the coastline through Bournemouth and on to Poole and Sunbanks. We took a ferry ride across to Studland and stopped for coffee at a beachfront park called Knoll Beach near Sunbanks which just happens to be the fourth most expensive area to live in Europe. In addition to being in this lavish surroundings, this park offered a grand view of the Old Harry Rocks.
From Studland we drove on to the picturesque village of Swanage which offered still more breathtaking vistas of this scenic waterfront area. We parked the car and walked through this Victorian seaside town. It was then on to the village of Kingston where we stopped at the charming old Scott Arms pub. This pub was built in 1787 and just being inside made you feel like you were back in the time of the Knights of the Roundtable. Our tour guides insisted that we have a glass of true English beer which fit perfectly with our surroundings.

It was such a thrill for us to see this different landscape of England. The day was picture perfect with blue skies and warm sunshine. Roy and Marion were the ultimate tour guides and it was such a thrill for us to sit back and enjoy the scenery. The day was capped off by a delicious dinner prepared by a hosts/tour guides. Tomorrow they tell us we are going to Salisbury. We can’t wait.